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Why the Ford Pinto didn’t suck

Why the Ford Pinto didn't suckThe Ford Pinto was born a low-rent, stumpy thing in Dearborn 40 years ago and grew to become one of the most infamous cars in history. The thing is that it didn't actually suck. Really.

Even after four decades, what's the first thing that comes to mind when most people think of the Ford Pinto? Ka-BLAM! The truth is the Pinto was more than that — and this is the story of how the exploding Pinto became a pre-apocalyptic narrative, how the myth was exposed, and why you should race one.

The Pinto was CEO Lee Iacocca's baby, a homegrown answer to the threat of compact-sized economy cars from Japan and Germany, the sales of which had grown significantly throughout the 1960s. Iacocca demanded the Pinto cost under $2,000, and weigh under 2,000 pounds. It was an all-hands-on-deck project, and Ford got it done in 25 months from concept to production.

Building its own small car meant Ford's buyers wouldn't have to hew to the Japanese government's size-tamping regulations; Ford would have the freedom to choose its own exterior dimensions and engine sizes based on market needs (as did Chevy with the Vega and AMC with the Gremlin). And people cold dug it.

When it was unveiled in late 1970 (ominously on September 11), US buyers noted the Pinto's pleasant shape — bringing to mind a certain tailless amphibian — and interior layout hinting at a hipster's sunken living room. Some call it one of the ugliest cars ever made, but like fans of Mischa Barton, Pinto lovers care not what others think. With its strong Kent OHV four (a distant cousin of the Lotus TwinCam), the Pinto could at least keep up with its peers, despite its drum brakes and as long as one looked past its Russian-roulette build quality.

But what of the elephant in the Pinto's room? Yes, the whole blowing-up-on-rear-end-impact thing. It all started a little more than a year after the Pinto's arrival.

 

Grimshaw v. Ford Motor Company

On May 28, 1972, Mrs. Lilly Gray and 13-year-old passenger Richard Grimshaw, set out from Anaheim, California toward Barstow in Gray's six-month-old Ford Pinto. Gray had been having trouble with the car since new, returning it to the dealer several times for stalling. After stopping in San Bernardino for gasoline, Gray got back on I-15 and accelerated to around 65 mph. Approaching traffic congestion, she moved from the left lane to the middle lane, where the car suddenly stalled and came to a stop. A 1962 Ford Galaxie, the driver unable to stop or swerve in time, rear-ended the Pinto. The Pinto's gas tank was driven forward, and punctured on the bolts of the differential housing.

As the rear wheel well sections separated from the floor pan, a full tank of fuel sprayed straight into the passenger compartment, which was engulfed in flames. Gray later died from congestive heart failure, a direct result of being nearly incinerated, while Grimshaw was burned severely and left permanently disfigured. Grimshaw and the Gray family sued Ford Motor Company (among others), and after a six-month jury trial, verdicts were returned against Ford Motor Company. Ford did not contest amount of compensatory damages awarded to Grimshaw and the Gray family, and a jury awarded the plaintiffs $125 million, which the judge in the case subsequently reduced to the low seven figures. Other crashes and other lawsuits followed.

Why the Ford Pinto didn't suck

Mother Jones and Pinto Madness

In 1977, Mark Dowie, business manager of Mother Jones magazine published an article on the Pinto's "exploding gas tanks." It's the same article in which we first heard the chilling phrase, "How much does Ford think your life is worth?" Dowie had spent days sorting through filing cabinets at the Department of Transportation, examining paperwork Ford had produced as part of a lobbying effort to defeat a federal rear-end collision standard. That's where Dowie uncovered an innocuous-looking memo entitled "Fatalities Associated with Crash-Induced Fuel Leakage and Fires."

The Car Talk blog describes why the memo proved so damning.

In it, Ford's director of auto safety estimated that equipping the Pinto with [an] $11 part would prevent 180 burn deaths, 180 serious burn injuries and 2,100 burned cars, for a total cost of $137 million. Paying out $200,000 per death, $67,000 per injury and $700 per vehicle would cost only $49.15 million.

The government would, in 1978, demand Ford recall the million or so Pintos on the road to deal with the potential for gas-tank punctures. That "smoking gun" memo would become a symbol for corporate callousness and indifference to human life, haunting Ford (and other automakers) for decades. But despite the memo's cold calculations, was Ford characterized fairly as the Kevorkian of automakers?

Perhaps not. In 1991, A Rutgers Law Journal report [PDF] showed the total number of Pinto fires, out of 2 million cars and 10 years of production, stalled at 27. It was no more than any other vehicle, averaged out, and certainly not the thousand or more suggested by Mother Jones.

Why the Ford Pinto didn't suck

The big rebuttal, and vindication?

But what of the so-called "smoking gun" memo Dowie had unearthed? Surely Ford, and Lee Iacocca himself, were part of a ruthless establishment who didn't care if its customers lived or died, right? Well, not really. Remember that the memo was a lobbying document whose audience was intended to be the NHTSA. The memo didn't refer to Pintos, or even Ford products, specifically, but American cars in general. It also considered rollovers not rear-end collisions. And that chilling assignment of value to a human life? Indeed, it was federal regulators who often considered that startling concept in their own deliberations. The value figure used in Ford's memo was the same one regulators had themselves set forth.

In fact, measured by occupant fatalities per million cars in use during 1975 and 1976, the Pinto's safety record compared favorably to other subcompacts like the AMC Gremlin, Chevy Vega, Toyota Corolla and VW Beetle.

And what of Mother Jones' Dowie? As the Car Talk blog points out, Dowie now calls the Pinto, "a fabulous vehicle that got great gas mileage," if not for that one flaw: The legendary "$11 part."

Why the Ford Pinto didn't suck

Pinto Racing Doesn't Suck

Back in 1974, Car and Driver magazine created a Pinto for racing, an exercise to prove brains and common sense were more important than an unlimited budget and superstar power. As Patrick Bedard wrote in the March, 1975 issue of Car and Driver, "It's a great car to drive, this Pinto," referring to the racer the magazine prepared for the Goodrich Radial Challenge, an IMSA-sanctioned road racing series for small sedans.

Why'd they pick a Pinto over, say, a BMW 2002 or AMC Gremlin? Current owner of the prepped Pinto, Fox Motorsports says it was a matter of comparing the car's frontal area, weight, piston displacement, handling, wheel width, and horsepower to other cars of the day that would meet the entry criteria. (Racers like Jerry Walsh had by then already been fielding Pintos in IMSA's "Baby Grand" class.)

Bedard, along with Ron Nash and company procured a 30,000-mile 1972 Pinto two-door to transform. In addition to safety, chassis and differential mods, the team traded a 200-pound IMSA weight penalty for the power gain of Ford's 2.3-liter engine, which Bedard said "tipped the scales" in the Pinto's favor. But according to Bedard, it sounds like the real advantage was in the turns, thanks to some add-ons from Mssrs. Koni and Bilstein.

"The Pinto's advantage was cornering ability," Bedard wrote. "I don't think there was another car in the B. F. Goodrich series that was quicker through the turns on a dry track. The steering is light and quick, and the suspension is direct and predictable in a way that street cars never can be. It never darts over bumps, the axle is perfectly controlled and the suspension doesn't bottom."

Need more proof of the Pinto's lack of suck? Check out the SCCA Washington, DC region's spec-Pinto series.

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My Somewhat Begrudging Apology To Ford Pinto

ford-pinto.jpg

I never thought I’d offer an apology to the Ford Pinto, but I guess I owe it one.

I had a Pinto in the 1970s. Actually, my wife bought it a few months before we got married. The car became sort of a wedding dowry. So did the remaining 80% of the outstanding auto loan.

During a relatively brief ownership, the Pinto’s repair costs exceeded the original price of the car. It wasn’t a question of if it would fail, but when. And where. Sometimes, it simply wouldn’t start in the driveway. Other times, it would conk out at a busy intersection.

It ranks as the worst car I ever had. That was back when some auto makers made quality something like Job 100, certainly not Job 1.

Despite my bad Pinto experience, I suppose an apology is in order because of a recent blog I wrote. It centered on Toyota’s sudden-acceleration problems. But in discussing those, I invoked the memory of exploding Pintos, perpetuating an inaccuracy.

The widespread allegation was that, due to a design flaw, Pinto fuel tanks could readily blow up in rear-end collisions, setting the car and its occupants afire.

People started calling the Pinto “the barbecue that seats four.” And the lawsuits spread like wild fire.

Responding to my blog, a Ford (“I would very much prefer to keep my name out of print”) manager contacted me to set the record straight.

He says exploding Pintos were a myth that an investigation debunked nearly 20 years ago. He cites Gary Schwartz’ 1991 Rutgers Law Review paper that cut through the wild claims and examined what really happened.

Schwartz methodically determined the actual number of Pinto rear-end explosion deaths was not in the thousands, as commonly thought, but 27.

In 1975-76, the Pinto averaged 310 fatalities a year. But the similar-size Toyota Corolla averaged 313, the VW Beetle 374 and the Datsun 1200/210 came in at 405.

Yes, there were cases such as a Pinto exploding while parked on the shoulder of the road and hit from behind by a speeding pickup truck. But fiery rear-end collisions comprised only 0.6% of all fatalities back then, and the Pinto had a lower death rate in that category than the average compact or subcompact, Schwartz said after crunching the numbers. Nor was there anything about the Pinto’s rear-end design that made it particularly unsafe.

Not content to portray the Pinto as an incendiary device, ABC’s 20/20 decided to really heat things up in a 1978 broadcast containing “startling new developments.” ABC breathlessly reported that, not just Pintos, but fullsize Fords could blow up if hit from behind.

20/20 thereupon aired a video, shot by UCLA researchers, showing a Ford sedan getting rear-ended and bursting into flames. A couple of problems with that video:

One, it was shot 10 years earlier.

Two, the UCLA researchers had openly said in a published report that they intentionally rigged the vehicle with an explosive.

That’s because the test was to determine how a crash fire affected the car’s interior, not to show how easily Fords became fire balls. They said they had to use an accelerant because crash blazes on their own are so rare. They had tried to induce a vehicle fire in a crash without using an igniter, but failed.

ABC failed to mention any of that when correspondent Sylvia Chase reported on “Ford’s secret rear-end crash tests.”

We could forgive ABC for that botched reporting job. After all, it was 32 years ago. But a few weeks ago, ABC, in another one of its rigged auto exposes, showed video of a Toyota apparently accelerating on its own.

Turns out, the “runaway” vehicle had help from an associate professor. He built a gizmo with an on-off switch to provide acceleration on demand. Well, at least ABC didn’t show the Toyota slamming into a wall and bursting into flames.

In my blog, I also mentioned that Ford’s woes got worse in the 1970s with the supposed uncovering of an internal memo by a Ford attorney who allegedly calculated it would cost less to pay off wrongful-death suits than to redesign the Pinto.

It became known as the “Ford Pinto memo,” a smoking gun. But Schwartz looked into that, too. He reported the memo did not pertain to Pintos or any Ford products. Instead, it had to do with American vehicles in general.

It dealt with rollovers, not rear-end crashes. It did not address tort liability at all, let alone advocate it as a cheaper alternative to a redesign. It put a value to human life because federal regulators themselves did so.

The memo was meant for regulators’ eyes only. But it was off to the races after Mother Jones magazine got a hold of a copy and reported what wasn’t the case.

The exploding-Pinto myth lives on, largely because more Americans watch 20/20 than read the Rutgers Law Review. One wonders what people will recollect in 2040 about Toyota’s sudden accelerations, which more and more look like driver error and, in some cases, driver shams.

So I guess I owe the Pinto an apology. But it’s half-hearted, because my Pinto gave me much grief, even though, as the Ford manager notes, “it was a cheap car, built long ago and lots of things have changed, almost all for the better.”

Here goes: If I said anything that offended you, Pinto, I’m sorry. And thanks for not blowing up on me.

Project Warhead

Started by warhead2, November 01, 2005, 10:57:13 PM

Previous topic - Next topic

0 Members and 3 Guests are viewing this topic.

Wittsend

I had a difficult time when I made/welded the floors in my Corvair. Even using press plates, clamps and weighted levers I found a 1 second (or less) weld warped the floor enough that I had to wait 3-4 minutes to do the next weld. And I was using my 100 amp Lincoln MIG on the lowest setting.

rob289c

Good to see you're on it.  Where did you get that section of floor?  Nice piece of material to work with. You have some big gaps to close up and you'll get a lot of practice doing it!  Keep us posted of progress.  I think I'm done with anything substantial on my project unless we get a sustained warming trend.  Happy New Year!
rob289c

1972 Wagon

Great way to start the New Year! Looking forward to your progress updates.
*The Original Family Car: A 1972 Pinto Wagon*
Ordered by my folks from Bunnell Motor Company, Inc., Bunnell, Florida
Delivered: June 20, 1972
Entrusted to my care: August 1976

warhead2

Ok first update of 2025. Didn't post last wk because my Farther n law is in the Hospital with pneumonia but he is getting better.
So I finally started a few tack welding in the drivers floor pan. I used 1 sheet metal screw to help hold pan down. Got a few spot welds after trimming the pan a little more and drilling some holes for spot welds. Only one picture this time.



rob289c

Looking forward to your progress and glad it's not me doing floor work!   ;D
rob289c

warhead2

Yeah I definitely know about that welding trick, but good reminder
This has got me motivated. And excited to work on the
Floor pan this wknd. I still need to grind my welds
Down. I definitely will keep everyone updated.
I'll try and post more pictures this Sunday of my progress.




rob289c

Looking good... Practice makes perfect!  When I did my Mustang floors I had to replace the entire passenger side including some of the toe board, but the driver's side wasn't as bad so I only cut the bad parts out and sectioned in the parts of the new panel that was necessary. 

Some advice in case you are interested...when welding the sections in, don't try to run a continuous bead without stopping the trigger.  Trigger a spot at a time to let the puddle settle, then quickly hit the puddle with another quick trigger, and continue.  Warpage isn't as much a problem on the floors as it would be on a quarter panel so you can probably do a couple of inches at a time in between machine "rest periods". I'm no expert, but I've picked up a few tricks welding on junk cars through the years!  :D

Keep posting to keep us engaged.  I haven't done anything to my project in about a month.  I want to install the grill in the front surround then mount it on the car.  I did install the bumper/headlight mounts but I don't think I submitted a debrief report.  I may do it this weekend even though it is going to be frigid this weekend!

rob289c

warhead2

Got some more bad metal cut out and got this toe board
Welded in. Noticed that the metal strip over the
Frame rail was not that badly rusted so I left
It. One step closer to getting in my bigger floor pan in.

rob289c

Brings back memories of when I was patching my rotted floor.  Mine was the same orange color.  Keep it going...every little bit gets you closer to completion.  And you will improve your welding skills with more practice.  It's not easy when you have to weld on Swiss Cheese rotted metal. 
rob289c

warhead2

Pic of what I welded

rob289c

Keep it going!  I like to read others posts.  Send pics when you can.
rob289c

warhead2

Small update, haven't did much since last post. But worked  on the drivers floor pan and toe board. Cut out some of the toe board and welded in a small piece and ground it down. Hopefully  will get more done this weekend. But Tapatalk is not working cant log in so can't post some pics

rob289c

I just rolled my welder under the bench this AM.  I'm hoping I don't need to use it for a while!  I need to focus on all the little things my project needs to get it ready to run and drive. 
rob289c

warhead2

Thanks.   Got some more grinding done but forgot to take a picture lol. I bought a bandfile Belt Sander to help get into tight areas. Works really well sanding down the welds. Also worked on the battery tray, used an metal bar and body hammer to fold the metal. Got it welded in ,still needs more but it was late so called it a nite


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rob289c

Practice makes perfect, or in my case...practice makes acceptable after a lot of grinding, body filler, primer and paint!   ;D  Keep on going.  Git 'er done!
rob289c

warhead2

Got the rest of the metal cut out. Used an old office folder to make my template and cut out my new metal. I then trimmed it little bit at a time till it fit, and got it welded in not all the was done on this patch. Also while removing the horn bracket bolt got hard to turn then twisted off the metal so another sheet metal repair lol.
But its not too bad.

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rob289c

Glad to see you're on it.  We need to read more than my long, drawn out stories!   :)  I use a pneumatic cut off tool.  It does allow tighter access than a 6" cutting wheel.  You will go through a lot of discs,  You'll be an expert metal worker by the time you have completed your project!  Keep going...
rob289c

warhead2

Small update bought me this Ryobi cut off tool. It works really great. Also great option if you don't have an air compressor that can feed heavy air tools, also easier to control than a grinder with a 6in cutting wheel.
Was able to get into a few tighter areas that I couldn't get with the grinder.  First pick is just forward of the battery tray near the horn. Need to remove horn and finish my cut. 2nd picture i cut out the spot drivers side trans hump. Hopefully have more updates soon

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warhead2

Oh yeah I broke the curse lol.   Yeah I have had that problem of blowing thru, I set it low and just send it sometimes lol but it's not too bad could be the metal is still too thin and I should have cut it back more. But ill grind it down so it looks somewhat better and paint it.

Heard some good advice a few yrs ago from Gearz Stacey David  that when you fell overwhelmed by your project just set and do small goals and complete the small goals and before you know it you have alot done.

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alwaysFlOoReD

I wish there was a like button on this forum.

rob289c

I'm glad to see you've made progress.  I will be posting some small steps I made on mine this weekend.  Keep going...don't give up!
rob289c

Wittsend

Congratulations! After 15 days without a new post here at the PCCA you broke the curse. :D


Frankly I don't know how people get nice welds working with old sheet metal. I'll grind off ALL the paint and rust on both sides, wipe it down with acetone, back it with a copper plate if it seems necessary and on one setting the weld will pile up and show little penetration. Then at the next higher setting it will repeatedly blow holes in the metal (which is why I backed it with copper). It is like you can't win. As you said, no one will see it.

warhead2

Small update got my battery tray area welded 98% just have a few pin holes to touch up and grind my welds. Its not pretty but its not going to be visible to anyone. Plan on getting the Ryobi 3in cutoff tool in the next wk which will make cutting metal easier than a grinder with cut off wheel. Small progress but its progress

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warhead2

My tank is 80 CF almost 3ft tall 32in. Yeah after this mess up I'm definitely checking it twice. Also I'm in Oklahoma,  so not alot of BS fees added on for refill.


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Wittsend



Quote from: warhead2 on April 03, 2024, 08:02:32 AM
I just got my welding Co2 tank filled back up after I made the mistake of leaving it on. I welded one wk came back a wk later went to turn the tank on and was like why is it so hard to turn on? Then it hit me to try and turn it the other way. I'm not going to make that mistake again. Luckily its not a very expensive one only $35 to fill back up. 

How big is your tank? Mine is roughly a 6" diameter and 24"" tall (less the valve). Back in 2020 it cost me  $62 for Argon/Co2. Here in California a bit more than half that cost is the gas itself, the rest are "fees." But, yea, I HATE when the tank is left open. Talk about "throwing your money to the wind." Now I close the valve and check it at least three times and then every day for about three days after. The good news is that (assuming I have closed the valve) I get well over 5 years out of a tank, but that is also a testament to what I'm NOT getting done. :(
Quote from: warhead2 on April 03, 2024, 08:02:32 AM
  I just got my welding Co2 tank filled back up after I made the mistake of leaving it on. I welded one wk came back a wk later went to turn the tank on and was like why is it so hard to turn on? Then it hit me to try and turn it the other way. I'm not going to make that mistake again. Luckily its not a very expensive one only $35 to fill back up. 


How big is your tank? Mine is roughly a 6" diameter and 24"" tall (less the valve). Back in 2020 it cost me  $62 for Argon/Co2. Here in California a bit more than half that cost is the gas itself, the rest are "fees." But, yea, I HATE when the tank is left open. Talk about "throwing your money to the wind." Now I close the valve and check it at least three times and then every day for about three days after. The good news is that (assuming I have closed the valve) I get well over 5 years out of a tank, but that is also a testament to what I'm NOT getting done.  :(


Oh, and also, YET AGAIN I type in the typing pane and it shows as a 10 point font (I left it to be seen - or better said not). Yet when it posts it is tiny to the max! I have to copy the whole text, reset it to 10 point and only then is it correct.

warhead2

Not alot to update on, haven't done much. Just little more underside cleaning then primer then undercoating.  Also cut out this piece of rust under the passenger backseat area.  I just got my welding Co2 tank filled back up after I made the mistake of leaving it on. I welded one wk came back a wk later went to turn the tank on and was like why is it so hard to turn on? Then it hit me to try and turn it the other way. I'm not going to make that mistake again. Luckily its not a very expensive one only $35 to fill back up. 

Now I have it filled back up I can start welding again. Yay. Thats all for now

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warhead2

Quote from: rob289c on October 04, 2023, 11:00:23 AM
Glad to see you're still on your project.  I almost sent a reply over the weekend to see if there were updates.  I figured you'd let us know when you had something to post so I didn't bug you.  You had the motor apart...how did that end up?  I am trying to get enough other things done on mine so I can try to start it before I have to put it away for the Winter.  I don't want to leap frog other tasks and get the project out of synch.  I really want to hear it run after getting the timing spot on.  It should be better than it was when I got it!

Keep going and keep us posted.  We learn from each other...
Thanks Rob I haven't done anything else with the motor yet. I want the block dipped cleaned and possibly get the block n head milled possibly just so its even. But if I do that I'm not sure what all I need to do, because it Changes things. I'm no expert on rebuilding engines, I understand the basics. I have a friend that is a certified mechanic that I'm going to ask for his help.
Don't be afraid to ask questions your not bugging me, I've been trying to work on it every Friday and Sunday now that the temps are cooling off will be more pleasant to work on it maybe get more done. My goal is to have it running by December 31 but not done or street legal.

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rob289c

Glad to see you're still on your project.  I almost sent a reply over the weekend to see if there were updates.  I figured you'd let us know when you had something to post so I didn't bug you.  You had the motor apart...how did that end up?  I am trying to get enough other things done on mine so I can try to start it before I have to put it away for the Winter.  I don't want to leap frog other tasks and get the project out of synch.  I really want to hear it run after getting the timing spot on.  It should be better than it was when I got it!

Keep going and keep us posted.  We learn from each other...
rob289c

warhead2

Sry haven't updated in several months. Got some welding done on the battery tray area. I know its not pretty but don't have a work bench or vice to help with bending metal. Its slow but I'm getting there

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warhead2

Another small update removed the inner fender battery plate drilling out the spot welds and help from an air chisel. Getting closer to start welding. This will be my first patch of meny.

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